Brainerd Minnesota History
RIVER!
Yes, there is a river here! The Mighty Mississippi, no less!
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NOTE: The interest in the river in Brainerd has been growing fast of late! For this reason, I will add NEW info hereto the bottom as it comes in. You might find it interesting to see the timeline grow so fast about an asset we have neglected so long.
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NEW for 2017! A Historic River Tour...on the water, or in your easy chair! Look for the Putt & Paddle red button towards the bottom of this page.
First, click the audio button to set the mood to RIVER. We see these birds in early spring on the river, but most move on to the lakes for nesting.
2016/11/28:
It just seems that something this important deserves its own page, especially when we seem to ignore it so much! FINALLY, the city is starting to focus on the river and its importance, AND its potential for economic growth, and even recreational opportunities! Yes, one can recreate on the river! I don't mean to be cynical, but it is just refreshing to see the river taken seriously now. A few years ago this was bugging me so I jotted some thoughts down. This could use some updating as we move closer to appreciating our river more in the coming years, but here it is from back in 2010:
River, WHAT river?
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I was lucky enough to grow up not only in Brainerd, Minnesota, but across the street from Gregory Park here. At age 4, I don’t suppose I knew that this neighborhood was a very desirable place to be. We had everything we needed in that park…skating in the winter, climbing trees and Parks Dept. games all summer, tennis, a place to play football or baseball; we LIVED there. I think we only came home to eat and sleep.
But about when I turned 8 or so we started venturing out beyond Our Park, and Our Block where we were otherwise confined to. Somehow we discovered the river, likely not telling Mom. In the winter we found 3 dandy sliding hills. In the summertime, these hills led us to places unknown, and there were a LOT of areas to explore. We weren’t allowed to cross Washington Street to the south, and were afraid to go past the cemetery to the north, so if we wanted to REALLY explore it was on the river banks. Before long we had built forts, figured out where and when and how to ford out to islands when the river was low, and had a network of caches of candy bars, axes, sticks, and swords made of old Venetian blinds carefully hidden. We never swam in the river; that scared us to death, but we spent just hours down there. For some reason, we never thought of it as THE Mississippi River, just OUR river. So you see, the river is a bit special to me. Then it was off to high school and the park and the river were just a memory until I rediscovered both from a historical aspect decades later.
Now I spend a lot of time exploring the river, but have come to realize that it is hard to find, and harder to even see! I know folks that have moved to town and cross the river many times a day, and say they didn’t even realize there was a river there. I mention Boom Lake and they have never heard of it; Rice Lake…nope. I can’t really blame folks for not having discovered THEIR river yet. Coming in from the north from Merrifield, one sees it for just a brief moment before the paper mill. Then you don’t see it again until you either go west toward Baxter (and you better be in a tall truck to see it from the first 2 bridges) or happen to know where Boom Lake is! If you DO know where that is, you can drive down from the Fire Hall on East River Road, and you get a glimpse of the river by the bleachers, but only after the leaves drop. Crossing East College Dr. heading to Kiwanis Park it’s the same thing, with just a few open spots, all the way to Jenny St. where you have to turn left and go uphill. There is even a park bench placed in a nice river-viewing spot, but again, all summer the trees obscure the view almost entirely. The main culprit is too many years of Boxelder trees going uncut. This “tall weed” can grow 7’ or more in a season. If JUST the Boxelder was cut back one would see 50% more of the river! I’m all for trees, but there is enough wonderful Scotch and Norway pine, Maple, Spruce, and even Cedar to keep it looking woodsy. The rest of the obstruction of view is just ordinary brush, and any trees that are big enough to keep could simply be limbed up.
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Back in the early 1980’s we had a parks dept. head that made it his mission for folks to be able to SEE the river. It was all over in the newspaper. Trees were trimmed even at the approaches to the bridges, and ALL along East River Road it was cleared out and some Norway Pines were planted. I remember being able to see the Dairy Queen in the summertime from Riverside School! The path around Boom Lake was cleared so that one could see the lake all the way around it, and you could easily see the river from the BACK side of the lake! This all did not come without some controversy. Just a FEW folks wanted not ONE tree cut or pruned; they wanted it to look natural. I suppose it was too much too fast. Well, it has been natural now for 3 decades, and the beautiful Mississippi has all but vanished. Our wonderful art deco 1932 Washington St. Bridge is viewable only from the river bottoms. In this same time, deadfall has been allowed to lay and rot, creating a fire and bug and other critters hazard. The river is strewn with old tires and shopping carts. Litter is windblown about and gets caught in the thicket between the paved path and the river. There is a wonderful rarely flooded lower elevation below East River Road, of land all the way from the High Rise to the College Bridge, almost like a road and it goes right up to the river’s edge, a natural “River Walk” but the woods along the path are too thick to access it. There’s even a small spit of land jutting out in to the river that looks like a natural lookout, or even a fishing spot. Our current parks dept. has been doing a great job of mowing now on the back side of Boom Lake where I help maintain the old brewery site. They have been using a wide sickle mower and brushing 6 or 8’ back, and mowing some clearings, and the difference is unbelievable. This and the placement of a picnic table and trash can has made this former jungle a little slice of heaven in the woods! They have done some brushing and limbing from Jenny St. to the Boom Lake inlet, and it is now the nicest river view in the city.
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One has only to travel to Little Falls or St. Cloud to see THEIR Mississippi. There are pathways at the river’s edge and sunsets to view from park benches a stone’s throw away from the water. One can also boat and pull up to a landing with a dock to go downtown shopping. I’d like to see some careful and selective thinning of the brush where it counts the most, like in front of the park bench by the canoe landing at Kiwanis Park. From a bench last year on the back side of Boom Lake I sat down and could see NONE of the lake, and the bench was just a few feet from the path! The bench is now IN Boom Lake. Areas that are unkempt and closed in by brush are just no good for a public area. It attracts mosquitoes, ticks, and vandalism. And that historical aspect I mentioned above? Well, most of our early history of Brainerd is right here in this lower river area, and very few of the historic sites are even marked, not even our 1870s steamboat landing! Parks & Rec. has however put up some interpretive kiosks at Gregory and Kiwanis Parks, so one can see the history of the site, ON the site!
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This is not necessarily river related, sorry, but does involve bridges. 15 years ago my brother-in-law came for a visit. He is big into bicycling, having visited by bike every State Park in Colorado. He was amazed to see that nearly none of our trails were marked. Even fewer connecting trail systems were marked as to which ones connected to which, or went to where. He was here again this summer and said the trails are great, but if he hadn’t been here many times before he would not have a clue as to how to get from south Brainerd to the Paul Bunyan Trail. We have gone nowhere in signage in 15 years. He avoided the college bridge as it was so hilly, favoring the Laurel St. bridge, but Laurel St. was “just plain dangerous.” I believe he went down 6th St. and then past the library and through the LEC parking lots to the fire hall. Not ONE sign! There are a dozen historical sites along the river too that should be marked. [See Historic Tour of the Mississippi River in Brainerd, Minnesota]
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In conclusion, it is nothing earth-shattering that is needed to bring our river to the public-they just need to be able to see it and get TO it. Simple tidying up and some directional and historical signage are all that are needed for a noticeable start. There are just a few precious blocks of viewable river available, so we need to capture it. Brainerd just does not seem to be what folks consider a “river town”, but it should be.
-Carl W. Faust, 2010
UPDATE, 2017: We are seeing a LOT more bike path signage now! The Mississippi River Committee is hard at work promoting recreational use of the river. There are now many graphic panel markers along the river, so things are improving vastly! Click below to see just how important the river really was to our town! It can still be important!!!
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UPDATE, 8/12/2022: Well, I will have to make a huge addendum to my 2010 document above for sure! I'm happy to report on the tremendous progress on getting access to this wonderful gem right here in our town. I will leave the above post in place as is because it is history, and points out what folks can do when focusing on sometint they think is important.
Did you know...
Brainerd now has FOUR Brainerd History Walks! Yep, Downtown, Northside, Northeast, and Riverview! There are not a lot of places to VIEW the river in town, so this is fun! From the brochure:
(See the other 3 on the Brainerd History Walks page.)
"Here is a history walk along the river on an entirely paved trail, so now you can grab this booklet any time and start getting some exercise AND a history lesson at the same time!
Enjoy the next 4,168 steps!!!
This walk starts at the lower parking lot area below North Star Apartments and goes to Kiwanis Park, Buster Park, then around Boom Lake. The distance is 1.9 miles, and it takes about an hour.
Several historic sites have been marked with historic plaques, shaded below, but many more will be discovered along this scenic route."
Print out your 4-page brochure and start walkin'...or bikin', bladin', boardin'...click the pink button:
Let's have some fun on the river! Look over the documents below and see if you can help. This is a study of the islands on the river, since at least 1898.
If you are lucky enough to get ON the river, here is a listing of historic points of interest. There is more evidence remaining than you'd think if you know what you are looking for. Be careful of the pilings just before the Tyrol Hills area, and the worst navigational hazard in the whole Mississippi, the concrete weights out from the sewage pumping station. This is directly out and a little downstream, a bit diagonal to the south, of the former sewage pumping box. This concrete box is now hidden by a "fishing pier", or lookout that looks like a deck over it When the water is low, some stick out a foot above the water...this is good, you can see them. The rest of the time they are lurking underwater 3/4 of the way across the river, ready to tear up your prop or take out the entire lower unit. Why these are allowed to remain in the river is beyond me! Seems like heavy, dangerous litter!
I am SO glad that I am getting to add more content to the RIVER page! It's been over a hundred years since anybody seemed to notice the thing, but now it's back in the news. There is talk of a revitalization of the area and more recreational use. Rotary Park has added 1400' of shoreline to the park system, and nearly 2 miles of wilderness trail, all the way to Little Buffalo Creek. Thank you, Brainerd Rotary!!! A canoe and kayak event was very successful with 80 or so boats during Brainerd History Week in 2017. The Mississippi Riverfront Committee is working on a better canoe landing. Here is a bit from their great new website:
Vision | Goals
Our Vision—Maximize our Mississippi Riverfront by creating recreational, economic, and cultural opportunities for Brainerd’s residents and visitors.
Our Goals—The Brainerd Riverfront Committee has established goals for 2016:
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Prepare a phased implementation plan based on the Mississippi Riverfront Partnership Plan
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Identify and summarize similar successful riverfront projects in other communities
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Identify which projects are feasible and achievable
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Provide a timeline with benchmarks
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Identify property owners and parcel information along the corridor
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Identify funding sources and uses
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Provide a list of eligible funding sources based on identified projects
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Identify additional expertise
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Determine a budget
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Identify and begin one achievable and visible project within the first year
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Create a community engagement strategy with a public relations campaign
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Engage the community in the process for their input
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Create videos, website, and social media communications for the project
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Putt & Paddle???
What the heck is a Putt & Paddle?
For some time I have been working on a "Historic River Tour through Brainerd Minnesota." As we re-discover our wonderful river, there will be more folks getting ON the water, either in a motor boat...that's the Putt part, or in a canoe or kayak, that being the Paddle part. So here you will find a tour that gets you on the water, but the tour now has photos added so you can find these historic sites more easily. So, you don't putt or paddle? Do a VIRTUAL tour right on your computer! See it here and enjoy!
NOTE, 5/25/2017:
I will be joining the paddlers on this tour, blabbering away. In the case of the water being too high and fast, or all-out dangerous weather such as lightning, just meet at 6:00 at the library for a slideshow version of this tour. THREE versions of the tour are below, the 6 pages with photos, the condensed version "one sheet" you can laminate and bring with you, and to PowerPoint slideshow. the red buttons below.
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UPDATE, 7/20/2017: Refreshed "one-sheet" WITH MAP and condensed guide version suitable for laminating to stay dry, below:
Now here is something to ponder:
OVERGROWTH: One of my pet peeves, but now a 1934 aerial photo to go along with it:
NEW, 7/31/2021:
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---LOW WATER!---
-Document UPDATED 8/20/2021.
-2021/8/12: TWO sections added: Dam, & Whiskey Creek, and more pilings.
-2021/8/20: I have had a few requests for info on HOW to get to these sites. Look for this: “How to access this site”: highlighted in blue.
-2021/8/25: UPDATED. DRONE VIDEO link added.
-2021/8/31: UPDATED, another item added, pipe by the Laurel St. Bridge.
-2022/8/8: NEW YouTube drone video link.
​​Another river document called Summer fun in the river-2021,
added 8/20/2021:
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With the river being at near-historically LOW water levels, our friends at the Brainerd Dispatch did the ultimate documentation...a DRONE VIDEO! Complete with closeups, and narration, see what only the birds could see, from the Brainerd Dam to First Island, AKA Frenchie's Island. You will love this one! A thousand thanks to the crew at the Brainerd Dispatch for tackling and accomplishing this valuable research tool, to be used for years to come.
This is from the Dispatch article:
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"2021 drought leads to historical discoveries in Mississippi River
The drought of 2021 created low water levels that helped historians search the bottom of the Mississippi River in Brainerd for historic artifacts, which dated back to the origin of the city."
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Find the drone video below.
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​​​​2022/8/8: New 2021 drone video YouTube link, a Brainerd Dispatch production; Steve Kohls & Carl Faust narrators, pilot Jim Stafford:
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CANOE LANDING idea: Here is a guy who came through our town from "source to sea"...Itasca to the gulf, in 2015. He said the portage here was great, but we REALLY lacked a decent place to land a canoe below the dam. I met him a the portage, and we carried the canoe up the slight hill, but the outhouse was the most welcome treat! Then I met him at Kiwanis Park, and he was surprised that there was no landing platform on that wonderful floating pier! He labored for 10 minutes through the muck & goo to get to solid ground. He agreed that this pier is the perfect spot for a landing, because unlike shoreline that can go up or down 14', or in and out 40', this platform would ALWAYS be just inches above the water. One could pick up and drop off passengers with ease from here. He could tie up just like on a lake to go enjoy the park for a bit. The canoe could also be tethered or locked up to the pier. All that is necessary is a platform hard-fixed to the pier that would go up and down with the pier, and a ladder up to a gate. See the UPDATE below.
UPDATE, 2024: The highs and lows of the previous years, varying up to 14', did too much damage to this floating pier. It did not return in 2024. Parts of it were used to rebuild other floating docks in city parks.
All of the events and tours above have led up to the building of a website that gives you plenty of options to enjoy the great Mississippi through Brainerd!
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​​​NEW for 2024...an INTERACTIVE MAP on the river!
If you like, you don't even have to get wet!
​​​The Mississippi River SELF-GUIDED History Tours &
Interactive Map is now online!
8/5/2024: Two years in the making, but worth the wait! There are 14 blue markers placed at the water's edge along the river from just below the Brainerd Dam at the Mississippi Landing by the cemetery, to Rotary Park. These will act as locators for the historic sites that are listed on the Interactive Map website hosted by CTC of Brainerd, but all of them also have a QR (Quick Response) code linked to a website, a story of the historic site, and a few photos. Note that the river levels below the dam can vary up to 14’, and the shoreline can go in our out 30’. Thus, the markers may not always be accessible. This project was set up to be accessed on a smartphone by scanning a QR code on a marker or found on a link online, and then one can follow it along the route in a boat...putting, or paddling! There is no need to scoot up to each, or any marker, as the QR code is common to all of them, and once scanned, you now have it all on your phone. But, not everyone has a smartphone, nor a boat, or even lives in the area, but might enjoy “seeing” some history on the river in the Brainerd stretch. There are several ways to do this. On the website, click on:
-PADDLING TOUR: BOOK FORM: Take the virtual tour from the PDF document, just like reading a book!
-WALKING TOUR: BOOK FORM: Go to Lyman P. White Park and scan the QR code on the marker that is by the paddle craft landing ramps. Walk or bike and get some fun history while you’re at it! Most of it is on paved trails, and this one adds some things NOT seen from the river, such as the pre-war ski slide location and the old Brainerd Brewing Co. on the back side of Boom Lake.
-DRONE RIVER TOUR VIDEO: This video was produced by the Brainerd Dispatch in 2021 during a near-historic low-water summer. Many artifacts were discovered or verified during this flight. S2S (Source-to-Sea) paddlers are now using it to locate the best sides of islands to go around and navigational hazards in this stretch from the dam to First Island on the Brainerd/Baxter line.
-MAP: This map is interactive, so click a tag to open it, pinch-out on your internet device, and click on any site. This will bring you to a short history and on most, a photo or two. This map is chock full of info. Note in the snip that the PADDLING TOUR sites are colored with a BLUE icon, WALKING TOUR sites with GREEN, and sites that could be a NAVIGATIONAL HAZARD with an ORANGE warning icon.
The best way to see most of the listed sites is to put in a boat of your choice at the Mississippi Landing by the cemetery where you can scan the QR code there. It is operated by the City of Brainerd Parks & Recreation and has a DNR-style concrete ramp and ample parking. There is also a marker close to the water at the end of the paddle landing ramp at Lyman P. White Park. If you like, preview the route before boating by clicking on the link below, and do feel free to share it with friends!
A short history of the River History Tours:
-2009: A list of historic sites was developed to work toward the preservation of artifacts in and near the river.
-2017: Holly Holm from Brainerd Community Action set up a similar tour to the one above for paddlers for the 2017 Brainerd History Week. That drew over 80 paddlers! The history part was related by a narrator in a canoe, but a strong headwind from downstream let the canoes surge ahead but the much lighter kayaks lagged behind. This event secured the idea that folks LOVE to paddle on the river here!
-2022/7/30: The folks from Smiles for Jake held a Paddle Race event called Smiles on the ‘Sippi. This event included a paddle from Mississippi Landing by the cemetery to Kiwanis Park. It also included other family activities in the park such as yoga classes, a magician, face painting, and more. Hillary Swanson from the Crow Wing County Historical Society saw the opportunity to add history to the event, this time offering narrators at a few sites ON the river along the route. Since it was a race, it was hard to slow anyone down, but the idea stuck. It was then decided to develop a SELF-GUIDED route with an Interactive Map.
-2024, July: Markers were put up along the route at the water’s edge, just in time for yet another great river event offered by the Mississippi River Headwaters Board, and partnering with the Crow Wing County Historical Society. This time, it started at Lum Park to include a milder paddle across Rice Lake and a portage of the Brainerd Dam, and a few marked sites were narrated.
-2024/8/5: It’s a-live! Scan it, paddle it, read it, walk it, or click it, but DO it…and SHARE it!
Check it out here:
-CWF, 8/6/2024; UPDATED: 8/8/2024